Risotto with Calamari and Zucchini Blossoms

•October 10, 2014 • Leave a Comment

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We are still seeing zucchini blossoms popping up at the markets, though these days the bounty is starting to run thin. When I found these a few weeks ago I couldn’t resist, they were so beautiful and fresh, though knowing what to do with them is always a problem. Weeknight meals tend to be delicious, but quick, no stuffed flowers or anything fried, but that goes for most nights of the week. I found some lovely calamari at the market the same day and decided that since I had some fish stock in the freezer and our evening temperatures are starting to decline that it was due time for a risotto.

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A wise choice, this was delicious, so delicate and since the flowers were added to the rice at the end of the cooking, they were still a little crunchy. I also added toasted pine nuts, which made the texture of this risotto dynamic, sometimes a tough sell, risotto tends to have a blanket texture, no surprises. I like surprises sometimes, especially when I am experimenting in the kitchen. The dynamicism of the risotto was also enhanced by the quality of the rice that we used, a fancy purchase from Eataly in Genova, and well worth it. The quality of your ingredients always matters.

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Risotto with Calamari and Zucchini Blossoms

  • 1 cup of Carnaroli or Arborio rice (Italians measure rice by demitasse cups, 1 cup for each person and one for the pot)
  • ½ an onion, chopped finely
  • 1 lb of fresh calamari, cleaned
  • 8-10 zucchini flowers, stems removed and rinsed well
  • 1/2 cup pine nuts
  • 5 cups fish or vegetable stock
  • 1 cup of dry white wine
  • 3 tbsp butter, divided
  • a few sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, minced
  • salt to taste

Rinse the calamari and cut into strips, separating the tentacles from the body.

Heat 1 tbsp of the butter in a medium pot over medium heat and add the calamari, stir to saute and let the calamari simmer for about 20 minutes or until they have released their juices and have become a little bit more tender, they will continue cooking in the rice.

Chop the onion into fine pieces and bring the broth to a simmer. Heat a large stovetop casserole pan over medium-high heat and melt butter at the bottom of the pan. When the butter is melted add the onion and sauté until it is translucent. Add the rice and coat it in the butter, toasting it a bit. When the rice becomes opaque, after about 1 minute, add the wine to the pan, enough to cover the rice, stirring frequently.

When the rice has absorbed the wine, add the calamari with the liquid that it has released and continue stirring. Continue adding the broth as the rice absorbs it, you want it to almost dry out before adding the broth each time.

Toast the pine nuts in a skillet until browned, careful not to burn them.

Right before the rice is al dente add the zucchini flowers and stir into the rice for them to wilt.

When the rice is finished it should be al dente and all of the liquid should be absorbed. Remove from heat and toss in the pine nuts, a tab of butter and the parsley. Serve immediately.

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Two Years Ago: Insalata di Seppie con Paté di Olive

Three Years Ago: Chocolate Swirl Cheesecake

Five Years Ago: Supplì

Spiced Brisket with Leeks and Dried Apricots

•October 4, 2014 • 1 Comment

P1360227 P1360229 P1360232 P1360235Brisket, delicious meat that gets better over time. Spice rubbed with the addition of honey for the sweet new year, soaking up the flavors overnight and cooked in the oven to be eaten the day after. Brilliant make ahead meat. The flavors were heavenly, but we aren’t in love with the quality of the meat in these parts, I appreciate that they like their meat lean, but when it comes to brisket and burgers, fat is flavor and fat is juice. My brisket was delicious, I made enough for an army, maybe I could have held back since I also make 2 chickens, which were the first to go.

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Despite the fact that my laziness got the better of me and we are far past Rosh Hashanah, a brisket is good at anytime. The spices in this recipe make for really delicious layers of flavors, though I wish that we had been able to find a few sprigs of cilantro to finish it off, that would have been the perfect freshness for the depth of the braise.

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Spiced Brisket with Leeks & Dried Apricots

from Bon Appétit

  • 2 1/2 tablespoons honey
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon ground coriander
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1 4 1/2- to 5 1/2-pound flat-cut (first-cut) brisket, well-trimmed
  • 2 medium leeks (white and pale green parts only), sliced
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 24 whole dried apricots, divided
  • 10 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 6 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 2 Turkish bay leaves
  • 2 cups dry red wine
  • 1 tablespoon matzo cake meal or flour
  • Chopped fresh cilantro

Stir first 8 ingredients in small bowl. Arrange brisket in large roasting pan; spread spice mixture evenly over both sides. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat broiler. Uncover brisket. Broil until brown, about 5 minutes per side. Turn brisket fat side up in pan.

Set oven temperature to 325°F. Sprinkle leeks, onion, 12 apricots, garlic, thyme, and bay leaves around brisket. Pour wine over. Cover pan with heavy-duty foil and bake brisket until tender, about 2 1/2 hours. Uncover; cool 1 1/2 hours.

Transfer brisket to work surface. Pour juices into large measuring cup. Spoon off fat, reserving 1 tablespoon. Thinly slice brisket across grain on slight diagonal; overlap slices in 15x10x2-inch glass baking dish. Spoon 1 cup degreased pan juices over brisket; cover with foil. Stir reserved 1 tablespoon fat and matzo cake meal in medium saucepan over medium heat 3 minutes. Add remaining degreased pan juices; add remaining 12 apricots. Simmer until sauce thickens and boils, stirring occasionally, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Cover brisket and sauce separately and chill.) Rewarm covered brisket in 350°F oven 30 minutes or 45 minutes if chilled. Rewarm sauce over low heat.

Sprinkle brisket with cilantro and serve with sauce.

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One Year Ago: Ziti con le Sarde e Cicoria

Two Years Ago: Roma

Three Years Ago: Risotto al Pesce & Farfalle alla Vodka

Four Years Ago: La Focaccia al Formaggio di Recco

Five Years Ago: Garganelli with Sausage Ragù, Lentil Pottage & Swiss Chard With Raisins and Pine Nuts

Pomegranate Chicken

•September 27, 2014 • 2 Comments

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Outstanding. I prepared a feast for the last night of Rosh Hashanah, celebrating the end of a very trying year, as well as celebrating the amazing friendships that have developed as a result of it, but mostly the welcoming of a sweet sweet new year. Pomegranates are a symbolic fruit for Rosh Hashanah, they are both a new seasonal fruit and symbolize our wish to have a year full of mitzvot and good deeds, just as a pomegranate is filled with so many ruby seeds.  My carrot coins were in this dish, representing abundance, either of blessings or wealth, I’ll take both! Most importantly, and an ingredient that was in almost every dish that I prepared, honey. Bring on the sweetness!

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I started my preparations for this meal three days in advance, making sure that my chicken was well seasoned and perfectly marinated, that advanced prep was a life saver. I love a meal that you prepare in advance, leaving you time to doll up before a dinner party, relax and make sure your mama’s hand-stitched table cloth is ironed for the occasion. All I needed to worry about was heating these puppies up before the meal. This chicken was one of two meats prepared, a brisket as well, which will appear in the next few days, and several sides that I have prepared in the past, Rice Pilaf with Golden Rasins and Pistachios, Moroccan Beet Salad & Apple Cake with Honey. I also made rugelach, and in my fear that they would be a disaster, I didn’t photograph the process, they looked like they would be a disaster and turned out pretty perfectly, not to mention dangerously delicious.

Shana Tova and a sweet new year to everyone!!

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Pomegranate Chicken

from House & Home

2 medium onions, sliced
2 cups baby carrots (or 2 cups peeled and sliced regular carrots)
2 whole chickens (3-1/2 lb. each), cut into pieces
1 tsp dried thyme
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup dried whole apricots, loosely packed
1 cup pitted whole prunes, loosely packed
2 tsp sweet paprika

Marinade
1/2 cup pomegranate juice (or juice of 1 pomegranate)
2 cloves garlic (about 2 tsp minced)
Juice and rind of 1 lemon
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 tbsp honey

Instructions:

According to ancient lore, the amount of seeds in the pomegranate is exactly the same number (613) as the mitzvot (good deeds) found in the Torah (the Jewish Bible). If you’re curious, count away!

Step 1: Spray a large roasting pan with cooking spray. Scatter the onions and carrots in the bottom of the pan. Rinse the chicken well and pat dry with paper towels. Trim the excess fat. Place the chicken on top of the vegetables and sprinkle — under the skin and on top — with thyme, and salt and pepper to taste. Tuck the apricots and prunes between the chicken pieces.

Step 2: Whisk the ingredients for the marinade together in a bowl. (If using the juice of a whole pomegranate, reserve some of the seeds for garnish.) Pour over the chicken and sprinkle with paprika. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or for as long as 2 days.

Step 3: When the chicken is marinated, preheat the oven to 350°F. Cook the chicken, covered, for 1-1/2 hours or until tender. Uncover and cook for 30 minutes longer, basting occasionally, or until the skin is golden. Remove from the pan from the oven and let cool before refrigerating overnight.

Step 4: About 30 minutes before serving, remove and discard any congealed fat from the chicken. Reheat, covered, for 25-30 minutes at 350°F. Transfer the heated chicken to a large serving platter and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds. Serve immediately. Keeps for up to 3 days in the refrigerator; reheats well. Freezes well for up to 4 months.

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One Year Ago: Stuffed Eggplant

Two Years Ago: Zucchini in Israeli Tomato Sauce, Crunchy-Topped Whole-Wheat Plum Cake & Caprese Pasta Salad with Grilled Eggplant

Three Years Ago: Salade Niçoise & Snapper al Sale

Four Years Ago: Porcini Trifolati

Five Years Ago: Meat TzimmesSweet Carrot Coins, Rice Pilaf with Golden Rasins and Pistachios, Challah & Apple Cake with Honey

 

Vegetable Lasagna “in bianco”

•September 18, 2014 • 1 Comment

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I love a little help in the kitchen, especially when it is my four year old daughter helping me with her little hands. My hope was that if she helped me assemble this lasagna she would also want to eat it, but I was wrong, she turned her nose up at it and ended up with a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. I remember my mother calling it food wars and we are deep in the trenches, I can’t complain too much, according to her teachers she is the only kid in her class who eats everything on her plate, vegetables included. It is at home that we have these problems, to the point of creating a “try it, try it” chart and the promise of a toy when she fills it with stickers of delicious things that she has tried without making gagging noises and eventually spitting it out. We are moving very slowly on the progress of this chart.

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The important thing is that we had fun making it, raising her enthusiasm for making the next thing. My husband and I thought it was delicious and were able to lunch on it for a few days afterwards too. I usually stick with a tomatoey lasagna, but with all of these veggies I knew that the tomato would overpower, so a bechamel sauce was the perfect delicate match. I used an olive oil bechamel recipe from my favorite New York Times author, Martha Rose Shulman, which is so delicate and much healthier than it’s butter alternative.

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Vegetable Lasagna in Bianco

  • ½ pound no-boil lasagna noodles
  • 1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
  • 2 cups grated mozzarella
  • 2 cups of frozen spinach, thawed and drained
  • 3 zucchini, sliced
  • 1 head of radicchio, chopped
  • ½ pound mushrooms, sliced
  • 1 small onion or shallot, minced
  • a few slices of ham
  • zucchini flowers, if available

for the bechamel:

  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons minced shallot or onion
  • 2 tablespoons sifted all-purpose flour
  • 2 cups milk
  • salt and pepper to taste

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vegetables:

Saute the vegetables separately, I sauteed them all in the same pan, but to save time in the process, but not necessarily in the clean up, you can saute them all in separate pans. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil to blanch the radicchio. In the meantime heat about 2 tbsp of olive oil in a heavy bottomed frying pan, add zucchini and saute until browned on both sides, be careful not too crowd or they will release too much liquid and not brown very nicely. Remove from the pan and set aside. After blanching the radicchio for 1 minute, drain well and add to the pan, if you need to add a drizzle more olive oil, do so. Saute the radicchio in the pan until it has started to change color. Remove from the pan and set aside. Add another tbsp of olive oil to the pan and add the minced onions, saute until translucent and add the mushrooms. Allow the mushrooms to release their liquid, when that liquid has evaporated turn off the heat and remove from the pan to set aside.

bechamel:

Heat the oil over medium heat in a heavy saucepan. Add the shallot or onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes, until smooth and bubbling, but not browned. It should have the texture of wet sand. Whisk in the milk all at once and bring to a simmer, whisking all the while, until the mixture begins to thicken. Turn the heat to very low and simmer, stirring often with a whisk and scraping the bottom and edges of the pan with a rubber spatula, for 10 to 15 minutes, until the sauce is thick and has lost its raw-flour taste. Season with salt and pepper.

assembly:

Spread a thin layer of bechamel at the bottom of a 9″ x 13″ baking dish, preferably glass. Place one layer of noodles on top, covering the entire dish. Distribute the mushrooms on the layer of noodles. Place the second layer of noodles on the mushrooms and spread another dollop of bechamel evenly over the noodles, topping that with the spinach, half of the mozzarella and some parmigiano reggiano. Place the 3rd layer of noodles on the spinach, and place the zucchini on that third layer, placing the ham slices over the squash. Place the 4th layer of noodles of the zucchini and ham and spread some of the bechamel evenly over the noodles, add the radicchio to this layer and distribute over the noodles. The final layer of noodles will be topped with bechamel, mozzarella cheese, zucchini flowers and what is left of the parmigiano-reggiano. Cover and let sit until you are ready to bake, it can be made 1 day ahead of time and chilled in the fridge. If you make it a day ahead, allow it to come to room temperature before putting it in the oven.

Preheat oven to 375°. Bake the lasagna, covered with aluminum foil, for 30 minutes. Remove the aluminum foil and allow to cook for an additional 10 minutes, until it is bubbling. Remove from the oven and allow it to sit for a few minutes before serving.

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One Year Ago: Merenda Napoletana

Two Years Ago: Chilled Zucchini-Yogurt Soup, Risotto with Sausages and Green Beans, Herb Baked Fish, Moroccan Beet Salad & Aunt Lois’s Challah

Three Years Ago: Spaghetti con Acchiughe, Erbe e Limone, Mediterranean Green and White Bean Salad, Zucchini and Rice Tian & Pasta alla Norma di Zucchine

Four Years Ago: Pan Seared Wahoo over Grits with Fresh Puttanesca

Five Years Ago: Lincoln Park Farmers Market, Chicago Il, Risotto agli Asparagi e Zafferano, Crochette di Riso & Parmigiana di Zucchine

Tiella Barese con Cozze, Riso e Patate

•September 2, 2014 • 2 Comments

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This tiella has been a quest for my husband since we have moved to Puglia, he tried it for the first time at a restaurant in Polignano a Mare, on the Adriatic coast and was instantly hooked. Puglia is all about good peasant food, the primary ingredients should all be of the best quality, but they are rarely ingredients that will break the bank. Mussels can be found everywhere, sold on the side of the road all along the coast and sold for nothing. At my fishmonger one kilo runs for about a euro, they are sold in giant dirty clumps, and considering the fact that there are often men tasting them raw on the premises, they are guaranteed to be fresh.

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We searched far and wide this winter for this dish, this is fill your belly and stick to your gut food, not something you want to eat in 90° weather. Oddly mussels are a summer food in Italy, and hold the opposite rule as they do in the US, they should only be eaten in months that don’t have an R in them, not sure why the rule is different over here. If anyone can give me some insight on this, I would love to know!

We have made this recipe once before, a terrible failure, but I decided to try it again and though it wasn’t perfect, it came out pretty well this time. I think one of the things that would make it outstanding would be a wood burning oven, giving it a smokey flavor. We also need to figure out the liquid situation, the recipe that I followed oddly didn’t ask for any liquid to be added, and I’m not sure how all of that rice would have cooked with just the liquid from the potatoes and the zucchini.

My quest is to find a mamma Barese to show me how it is really done.

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Tiella alla Barese

translated from Ricette di osterie della Puglia. Mare, erbe e fornelli Slow Food Editor

  • 300 grams arborio rice
  • 1 kilo of mussels
  • 500 grams of potatoes
  • 500 grams of zucchini
  • a few cherry tomatoes
  • 1 medium onion
  • 2 cloves of garlic
  • 1 small bunch of parsley
  • 100 grams of aged pecorino, finely grated
  • extra virgin olive oil
  • salt to taste

Clean the mussels and steam them open in a covered pan for a minute or two. Remove them from their shells and set them apart. Filter the liquid that they released when cooked and set apart.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F).

Slice the vegetables into even rounds. Sprinkle some salt on the bottom of a heavy casserole, preferably terracotta. Spread some of the potatoes in an even layer on top of the salt, followed by some of the mussels, some of the zucchini, some of the rice, some of the onion. Add some of the cheese, some of the tomatoes, olive oil and pieces of garlic. Repeat with the potatoes, mussels, zucchini, rice, onions, garlic, tomatoes pecorino and parsley. Continue with the layers until all of the ingredients have filled the casserole. Pour the liquid from the mussels over the casserole and add about 1/2 cup of white wine or water.

Cook for one hour until it is golden and crusty on top.

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Two Years Ago: Casareccie with Green Beans and Ricotta, Holland & Cappelletti con Salmone Affumicato e Fagiolini

Three Years Ago: Pasta e Patate, Summer Squash with White Beans and Tomatoes, Ricotta, Tapenade and Cherry Tomato Pizza & Spaghetti con Acchiughe, Erbe e Limone

Four Years Ago: Greek Stewed Green Beans and Yellow Squash With Tomatoes, & Gemelli with Grilled Sausage and Scamorza

Five Years Ago: Banana Blueberry Muffins

Acciughe Sotto Sale

•August 20, 2014 • 3 Comments

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I missed out for years on the wonders of the anchovy. It was always something that I turned my nose up at, and culturally I feel like all American kids were trained, in my day, to think anchovies were the most disgusting things on earth. Cartoons with anchovy pizzas stinking up rooms, thinking that people who ate them must have the worst breath in the world. They should have been targeting quarter pounders and supersized fries, not one of the world’s healthiest food.

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My mother-in-law buys jars of these artisinally salted anchovies in Lavagna, near Genova, where anchovies are a religion, served every way possible. These treasures in a glass jar don’t come cheap, but they are a little piece of heaven. They are a pain to clean, and it is a process, but well worth it. They need to first be rinsed in cold water to get the salt off, carefully pulling out their spines and pulling off that pesky tail without breaking the anchovy too much. After months in that salt they become very delicate. Another rinse and then dry them out on clean paper towels. We then place them in a dish and pour good extra-virgin olive oil over them to cover them. They are usually best after a night in the olive oil, but a few hours will also do.

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We use them to cook with, adding that delicious umami to pasta dishes that need a little extra love. When the anchovies have all been consumed, we filter the oil and use that to cook with, which adds great flavor to most things and leaves nothing to waste. Our favorite way to eat these guys though is to smear unsalted butter on good crusty bread and lay a few of these babies on top, a delicious little antipasto, but is also the perfect meal with a little salad on the side.

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One Year Ago: Orecchiette nelle ‘Nchiosce & Moscardini-Polipi agli Agrumi

Two Years Ago: Spaghetti alla Chittara con Cicoria e Paté di Olive, Spaghetti con le Cozze e Pomodori Freschi, Pranzo di Ferragosto & Fusilli Bucati alla Puttanesca

Three Years Ago: Grilled Bread Salad, Amatriciana with fresh tomatoes, Herb Marinated Kebabs, Cherry Clafouti & Blueberry Basil Vinegar

Four Years Ago: Pizza Bianca with Fresh Figs and Prosciutto Crudo & Sweet Pea Pesto

Five Years Ago: Grilled Lemon-Balsamic Asparagus, Zucchini and Ricotta Pie, Melanzane al Funghetto & Risotto with Zucchini and Saffron

Ricotta and Sweet Potato Gnocchi

•July 31, 2014 • 2 Comments

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Sweet potatoes are a precious root here, not easy to find and fairly expensive since they are shipped from the US, I also doubt that many of the locals buy them very often. Leftover sweet potatoes therefore cannot be thrown away and instead of reheating them, re-purposing them was the more delicious alternative. Our lovely neighbor often pops by with fresh ricotta from her family’s farm and serendipitously brought some by the day after we had smashed sweet potatoes. A delicious combination for the perfect gnocchi.

I made these ahead of time and froze them for an easy weeknight meal, they do not need to be thawed prior to plopping them in the water, but note that you should only boil about a dozen at a time or they will turn to mush. A lesson that I sadly learned after making potato gnocchi for the first time.

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Sweet Potato Gnocchi with Brown Butter and Sage

adapted from epicurious.com

  • 2 1-pound red-skinned sweet potatoes (yams), rinsed, patted dry, pierced all over with fork
  • 1 12-ounce container fresh ricotta cheese, drained in sieve 2 hours 1 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese (about 3 ounces)
  • 2 tablespoons (packed) golden brown sugar
  • 2 teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
  • 2 3/4 cups (about) all purpose flour
  • 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
  • 6 tablespoons chopped fresh sage plus whole leaves for garnish (we used rosemary since sage is as hard to find as the sweet potatoes)

Line large baking sheet with parchment paper. Place sweet potatoes on plate; microwave on high until tender, about 5 minutes per side. Cut in half and cool. Scrape sweet potato flesh into medium bowl and mash; transfer 3 cups to large bowl. Add ricotta cheese; blend well. Add Parmesan cheese, brown sugar, 2 teaspoons salt, and nutmeg; mash to blend. Mix in flour, about 1/2 cup at a time, until soft dough forms.

Turn dough out onto floured surface; divide into 6 equal pieces. Rolling between palms and floured work surface, form each piece into 20-inch-long rope (about 1 inch in diameter), sprinkling with flour as needed if sticky. Cut each rope into 20 pieces. Roll each piece over tines of fork to indent. Transfer to baking sheet. (I hand rolled them for bigger gnocchi).

Bring large pot of water to boil; add 2 tablespoons salt and return to boil. Working in batches, boil gnocchi until tender, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer gnocchi to clean rimmed baking sheet. Cool completely. (Can be made 4 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.)

Preheat oven to 300°F. Melt butter in heavy large saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook until butter solids are brown and have toasty aroma, swirling pan occasionally, about 5 minutes.

Add chopped sage (mixture will bubble up). Turn off heat. Season sage butter generously with salt and pepper.

Transfer half of sage butter to large skillet set over medium-high heat. Add half of gnocchi. Sauté until gnocchi are heated through, about 6 minutes. Empty skillet onto rimmed baking sheet; place in oven to keep warm. Repeat with remaining sage butter and gnocchi.

Divide gnocchi and sauce among shallow bowls. Garnish with sage leaves.

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One Year Ago: Penne with Sausages and Cicoria & Acciughe al Finocchio

Two Years Ago: Fried Zucchini Flowers, Watermelon, Quinoa and Feta Cheese Salad, Casareccie con Triglie e Pesto di Acciughe alla Menta, Insalata di Seppie e Zucchine alla Scapece & Farfalle alla Primavera

Three Years Ago: Chickpeas With Baby Spinach

Four Years Ago: Flounder in Cartoccio & Torta Caprese

Five Years Ago: Panzanella, Green Beans alla Napoletana, Chickpea and Vegetable Stew with Couscous, Pasta e Lenticchie & Pasta all’Insalata Caprese

 
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